My Birthday Trip To Puglia

Turning seventy felt like a milestone worth celebrating in a special way. When my husband asked me back in January what I wanted for my birthday, my answer came without hesitation—I wanted to return to Puglia. Although Umbria will always hold a special place in my heart, especially since we own a home there, Puglia has quietly become one of my favorite regions in Ita

Coming from the rolling, landlocked hills of Umbria, I love the dramatic change of scenery that Puglia offers. Surrounded by the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the region is a paradise for anyone who loves seafood. Every meal seems to feature fish and shellfish caught just hours before they reach your plate. Beyond the food, Puglia has a character unlike anywhere else in Italy. The iconic trulli with their whimsical cone-shaped roofs, centuries-old masserie that have been transformed into charming country hotels, endless groves of ancient olive trees, vineyards stretching to the horizon, and the rugged limestone landscape all combine to create a place that feels both rustic and timeless. Add to that some of the warmest and most welcoming people I’ve encountered anywhere in Italy, and it’s easy to understand why I keep finding reasons to return.

Travel isn’t always as simple for us these days. Back home in Florida, our little hobby farm keeps us busy with a flock of chickens, two mischievous goats, three cats, and two dogs, so leaving for an extended trip takes quite a bit of planning. Fortunately, I was already going to be in Italy for my grandson Matthew’s high school graduation trip, so it seemed like the perfect opportunity to add a few extra days before heading home. Five additional days in Puglia sounded like the ideal birthday gift.

Our adventure began on the spectacular Gargano Peninsula, an area known for its dramatic coastline, charming fishing villages, and centuries-old traditions. My main goal for the day was to experience lunch on one of the peninsula’s historic trabucchi, ancient wooden fishing platforms that extend over the sea on a network of weathered beams and long fishing arms. Once used by local fishermen to harvest the day’s catch without taking a boat out, many of these remarkable structures have now been lovingly restored as unforgettable seafood restaurants.

We arrived at Trabucco da Mimì in the picturesque town of Peschici just in time for lunch. Sitting above the sparkling Adriatic with the sound of the waves beneath us made for an unforgettable setting. We chose the five-course seafood tasting menu and paired it with a bottle of crisp, chilled local white wine. Each course highlighted the incredible freshness of the day’s catch. The portions were perfectly sized, allowing us to savor every dish without feeling overly full, and every bite reminded us why seafood in Puglia is so memorable. It was exactly the leisurely, unforgettable birthday lunch I had been hoping for.

After our wonderful meal, we continued south along the coast to Hotel Residence Il Porto. This wasn’t a new discovery for us—we had stayed there years earlier during a cycling tour through the region, and I remembered both its convenient location and beautiful setting overlooking the sea. The rooms are comfortable and simply furnished rather than luxurious, but they are spotless and provide everything you need for a relaxing stay. The generous breakfast buffet offers an impressive variety of sweet and savory choices, the inviting pool is perfect for cooling off after a day of sightseeing, and the sea is only a short walk away. It proved to be the perfect place to unwind before continuing our journey deeper into one of Italy’s most captivating regions.

Our second day in Puglia began with a leisurely drive farther down the Adriatic coast to the beautiful seaside town of Polignano a Mare. Perched dramatically on limestone cliffs overlooking the brilliant turquoise waters below, it’s easy to understand why this picturesque town has become one of Puglia’s most popular destinations. Its narrow whitewashed streets, charming piazzas, flower-filled balconies, and breathtaking sea views make it almost impossible to put your camera away. Of course, its popularity also means that the town is often bustling with visitors, especially during the summer months.

Before exploring, we made our first stop at one of the local cafés for a Caffè Speciale, a Polignano tradition. This unique coffee is served warm with espresso, cream, sugar, lemon zest, and a splash of liqueur, creating a rich and aromatic drink that is unlike any other coffee I’ve had in Italy. It was the perfect way to start our morning.

Fueled by our coffee, we wandered through the maze of narrow streets, browsing the many artisan shops and boutiques tucked into centuries-old stone buildings. Every turn seemed to reveal another spectacular viewpoint overlooking the sparkling Adriatic, and despite the crowds, the town retained its undeniable charm. Polignano a Mare is one of those places where it’s a joy to simply stroll without any particular destination, soaking in the atmosphere and stopping frequently to admire the scenery.

By lunchtime we made the short drive to nearby San Vito, where we had reservations at Veranda di Giselda. Once again, Puglia reminded us why its seafood is among the finest in Italy. Our leisurely lunch featured impeccably fresh local seafood, simply prepared to let the quality of the ingredients shine. Accompanied by another chilled bottle of local white wine and enjoyed at the relaxed pace Italians do so well, it was another memorable meal that perfectly captured the flavors of the region.

After lunch we continued on to Canne Bianche Lifestyle Hotel, where we planned to spend the next couple of nights. This hotel was definitely a bit of a birthday splurge, but after months of planning and looking after our hobby farm back home, I decided it was time to indulge myself just a little—and it turned out to be worth every penny.

Located directly on the Adriatic Sea, Canne Bianche is an elegant boutique hotel with beautifully landscaped grounds that immediately create a sense of peace and relaxation. Every detail, from the immaculate gardens to the stylish décor, reflected thoughtful attention and exceptional care. What impressed me even more than the beautiful setting, however, was the level of hospitality. The staff anticipated our every need and genuinely made us feel welcome from the moment we arrived.

One particularly thoughtful touch made me smile. Since we were traveling with our two little dogs, the hotel welcomed them with personalized gifts and handwritten notes waiting in our room. It was such an unexpected gesture that immediately made us feel at home and confirmed that we had chosen the perfect place to celebrate my birthday.

The following morning, we discovered what may well have been the finest breakfast buffet I’ve ever experienced in Italy. The selection seemed endless, with freshly baked pastries, artisan breads, local cheeses and cured meats, seasonal fruit, made-to-order egg dishes, fresh juices, and every imaginable coffee. It was the kind of breakfast that encourages you to linger over a second cappuccino while planning the adventures ahead, and it set the tone for another wonderful day exploring one of Italy’s most captivating regions.

Our third day in Puglia began with a visit to one of my favorite towns in the region, the beautiful hilltop city of Ostuni. Known as La Città Bianca, or “The White City,” Ostuni’s maze of whitewashed buildings seems to glow against the blue Puglian sky. It holds a special place in my heart because many years ago we spent a wonderful week there with our family, creating memories that have stayed with me ever since. Returning always feels a little like coming home.

One advantage of being early risers is that we arrived before the tour buses and crowds. For a little while, it felt as though we had the entire town to ourselves. We wandered the quiet cobblestone streets, admired the whitewashed houses overflowing with flowers, peeked into tiny artisan shops as they opened for the day, and paused often to take in the sweeping views of the olive groves stretching all the way to the Adriatic Sea. By late morning the town began filling with visitors, reminding us just how popular Ostuni has become, so we decided it was the perfect time to continue our journey.

Our next stop was the nearby town of Cisternino, another charming hill town famous for its historic center and relaxed atmosphere. We spent a little time strolling through its picturesque lanes before turning our attention—as always—to lunch.

For nearly twenty years, every visit to this part of Puglia has included a meal at L’Oasi di Riccio. Calling it a restaurant almost feels misleading because it’s more of a humble seaside shack than an elegant dining room, but that’s exactly part of its charm. Perched right by the water, the focus has always been on serving incredibly fresh seafood without any unnecessary fuss. Although the prices have certainly risen over the years, the quality remains every bit as exceptional as we remembered.

We began with a generous assortment of seafood appetizers showcasing the day’s catch before moving on to what became our favorite dish of the entire trip. Each of us ordered spaghetti tossed with vongole veraci—tiny sweet clams—and ricci di mare, the rich, briny pulp of fresh sea urchins. The sauce was silky, intensely flavorful, and tasted like the sea itself. It was one of those unforgettable meals that lingers in your memory long after the vacation has ended.

After another leisurely lunch, we returned to Canne Bianche for a relaxing afternoon. Rather than venturing out again, we enjoyed a quiet dinner at the hotel before turning in early, ready for another day of exploring.

Our fourth day took us farther south to the magnificent Baroque city of Lecce, often called the “Florence of the South.” Once again, arriving early rewarded us with peaceful streets before the tour groups arrived. We wandered through the elegant piazzas, admired the city’s remarkable Baroque architecture, browsed a few local shops, and took time to visit some of Lecce’s most famous landmarks.

No visit to Lecce would be complete without stopping for one of the city’s beloved pasticciotti. These delicious little pastries, filled with rich pastry cream and served warm, are one of my favorite Italian treats. Paired with an iced coffee on a warm Puglian morning, it made for the perfect mid-morning break.

Later that afternoon we continued toward the coast near Otranto, where we had booked a stay at Masseria Corte degli Aromi. Along the way we assumed we’d easily find a café for a quick panino, but much to our surprise nearly everything we passed was closed. Thankfully, our hosts came to the rescue, preparing two generous fresh salads for us upon our arrival, which were exactly what we needed.

Our accommodations couldn’t have been more different from our previous hotel. Instead of polished luxury, this family-run masseria offered a peaceful, rustic atmosphere surrounded by the countryside. I had reserved a Junior Suite complete with our own private plunge pool, and after several busy days of sightseeing, spending a quiet afternoon relaxing by the water was pure bliss.

That evening we drove to the nearby town of Maglie for dinner at the well-known Bel Ami restaurant. The meal was another highlight of our trip. We selected a beautiful whole orata (sea bream), and the chef thoughtfully transformed it into several courses. He first prepared an elegant raw fish appetizer, followed by a delicate pasta featuring the remaining fish. It was a wonderful example of the creativity and respect for ingredients that characterize the best restaurants in Puglia.

Our final full day in Puglia was spent exploring the coastal town of Otranto. With its ancient walls, picturesque harbor, and winding medieval streets overlooking the brilliant blue Adriatic, it’s easy to see why so many visitors fall in love with this beautiful seaside city. We spent the morning wandering through the historic center, browsing shops, and pausing for an aperitivo while watching the world go by.

Lunch was at Nonna Tina’s, where we shared a selection of dishes beginning with an exceptionally fresh raw seafood appetizer, followed by a delicious pasta. Unfortunately, the swordfish we ordered as our main course was disappointing, having been overcooked to the point that it tasted burnt. Even in Italy, not every meal can be perfect.

Fortunately, our farewell dinner more than made up for lunch. Rather than venturing out one last time, we accepted our hotel owner’s suggestion to have a local chef prepare dinner for us at the masseria. It proved to be the perfect way to end our journey through Salento.

The chef introduced us to some of the region’s most beloved specialties, beginning with creamy fava bean purée topped with slightly bitter wild chicory, one of Puglia’s classic comfort dishes. We also enjoyed tender octopus slowly braised in tomato sauce until meltingly soft, a beautifully prepared pasta with raw local shrimp, and a luxurious lobster pasta that perfectly showcased the incredible seafood this region is known for.

As we packed our bags that evening, I couldn’t help but reflect on what a wonderful birthday gift this trip had been. Between the unforgettable seafood, charming whitewashed towns, welcoming people, beautiful hotels, and endless views of the Adriatic, Puglia had once again reminded me why it has become one of my favorite places in all of Italy. Leaving is always bittersweet, but I know we’ll be back again before too long.